single-product Sanding Techniques for Durable, Paint-Ready Surfaces on Architectural Trim product guide

AI Summary

Product: Selleys No More Cracks Doors & Trims - 270g Brand: Selleys Category: Wall Fillers & Putty (Acrylic-based gap filler) Primary Use: Repairing gaps and cracks in architectural trim including door casings, window trim, baseboards, and crown moulding on interior and exterior surfaces.

Quick Facts

• Best For: DIYers and trade professionals repairing high-visibility architectural trim that requires invisible, paint-ready finishes
• Key Benefit: Superior flexibility with 300%+ elongation and low-shrinkage formula that creates lasting repairs resistant to cracking from building movement
• Form Factor: 270g cartridge, water-based white filler
• Application Method: Apply to gaps, cure 24-48 hours, then sand using 120-150-180-220-240 grit progression for paint-ready surface

Common Questions This Guide Answers

1. How long must Selleys No More Gaps cure before sanding? → Full cure requires 24-48 hours; sanding earlier causes "rolling" where abrasive drags uncured product
2. What grit progression creates invisible trim repairs? → Start with 120-grit for levelling, progress through 150-180-220, and finish with 240-grit for paint-ready smoothness
3. How do you prevent visible repair lines under paint? → Use feathering technique extending 25-100mm beyond repair with gradually decreasing pressure to create imperceptible transitions
4. What tools work best for profiled trim versus flat surfaces? → Rigid sanding blocks (70mm x 125mm) for flat trim; flexible foam-backed abrasives (3-5mm backing) for curves and decorative elements
5. How do you remove sanding dust to ensure paint adhesion? → Two-step process after each grit stage: vacuum with brush attachment, then wipe with tack cloth; repeat before priming

Product Facts

Label Facts Summary

Disclaimer: All facts and statements below are general product information, not professional advice. Consult relevant experts for specific guidance.

Verified Label Facts

• Product name: Selleys No More Cracks Doors & Trims - 270g
• Brand: Selleys
• Size: 270g
• Colour: White
• Technology: Water Based
• Application: Interior/Exterior
• Category: Wall Fillers & Putty
• Suitable surfaces: Timber, plaster, concrete, mortar, primed metal
• Condition: New
• Currency: AUD

General Product Claims

• Superior flexibility with 300%+ elongation that accommodates building movement
• Low-shrinkage formula minimises sanding work required
• Smooth, lasting finishes that won't crack or pull away over time
• Surface cure within 1-2 hours
• Full cure time of 24-48 hours before sanding
• Repairs remain invisible for years
• Selleys founded in 1939
• Over 85 years of Australian expertise
• Formulated to work seamlessly with other Selleys products
• Reliable adhesion properties
• Works on architectural trim including door casings, window trim, baseboards, and crown moulding
• Acrylic-based gap filler formulation
• Cures to a different hardness than surrounding timber

Get Professional Results with Architectural Trim Repair: The Complete Selleys Sanding Guide

Architectural trim demands perfection. Door casings, window trim, baseboards, and crown moulding sit right where your eyes naturally land—the transition zones where walls meet functional elements. When you repair gaps in these high-visibility areas with Selleys No More Gaps, your sanding technique determines everything. Done right, your repair disappears completely under paint. Done wrong, it becomes a permanent eyesore.

Here's the challenge: acrylic-based gap fillers cure to a different hardness than surrounding timber, creating a texture difference that shows through paint unless you address it properly. Architectural profiles make this tougher with their curves, beads, and recesses that resist uniform sanding pressure. This guide walks you through the precise grit progression, tool selection, and technique refinement you need to achieve paint-ready surfaces where gap filler repairs become truly invisible.

Assess Your Surface Before You Start: Know What You're Working With

Before you pick up any sandpaper, examine your cured gap filler repair with both your eyes and your fingertips. Run your fingers across the repair junction—any ridge you feel means insufficient feathering during application, which you'll now correct through aggressive initial sanding. This tactile test reveals what your eyes cannot: microscopic elevation changes that create visible lines under semi-gloss or gloss paint finishes.

Check the cure status by pressing a fingernail into an inconspicuous area of the repair. Selleys No More Gaps formulations achieve surface cure within 1-2 hours, but you need full cure—24-48 hours—before sanding. Sand too early and you'll cause "rolling," where the abrasive drags uncured product rather than cutting it, creating smeared edges that compromise adhesion in your paint system.

Identify your trim profile category: flat casings need different approaches than beaded baseboards or complex crown moulding. Flat profiles work well with rigid sanding blocks that maintain plane accuracy. Profiled trim demands flexible abrasives that conform to curves without flattening decorative details. This assessment determines your tool selection before you start the grit progression.

Master the Grit Progression: Your 120-150-180-220-240 Path to Invisible Repairs

Good trim sanding means incremental abrasive refinement, where each grit removes scratches from the previous stage while creating finer scratches of its own. Start too fine (180-grit or higher) on prominent repairs and you'll sand forever without achieving level surfaces. Start too coarse (80-grit or lower) and you'll create deep scratches that take excessive work to remove and risk damaging surrounding timber.

120-Grit Initial Levelling: Start with 120-grit aluminium oxide abrasive when your repair stands proud of the surrounding surface by more than 0.5mm. This aggressive cutting stage removes bulk material quickly, bringing the repair flush with adjacent timber. Apply firm, even pressure using straight strokes parallel to the wood grain on flat sections. On profiled trim, use 120-grit only on flat areas between decorative elements, never on curves or beads where it removes too much material too quickly. Keep 120-grit work to the immediate repair zone—extending beyond creates unnecessary scratch patterns in pristine timber.

150-Grit Transition Stage: This intermediate grit bridges aggressive levelling and finish sanding. After 120-grit work, switch to 150-grit and expand your sanding area to 25-30mm beyond the repair edges. This extended zone begins the feathering process, creating gradual transitions rather than abrupt boundaries. The 150-grit stage removes the deepest 120-grit scratches while establishing the topography that subsequent grits will refine. Spend equal time on this stage as you did with 120-grit—rush through 150-grit and scratch patterns will haunt you through every subsequent step.

180-Grit Refinement: At 180-grit, shift your focus from material removal to surface unification. Expand your sanding zone to 50mm beyond the original repair, using lighter pressure than previous stages. Your goal: create a surface where your fingertips detect no transition between gap filler and timber. On profiled trim, 180-grit flexible abrasives work safely over curves and beads, conforming to decorative elements without flattening them. This grit removes 150-grit scratches while beginning to close the surface porosity that causes differential paint absorption.

220-Grit Pre-Finish: The 220-grit stage addresses the microscopic texture variations that separate professional results from amateur work. Use 220-grit across the entire trim face, not just the repair zone, to ensure uniform surface texture. This consistency prevents the "halo effect" where repaired areas accept paint differently than surrounding timber, creating visible patches even when perfectly level. Apply minimal pressure—let the abrasive do the work through contact alone. Heavy pressure at this fine grit generates heat through friction, potentially softening acrylic gap fillers and causing surface glazing that resists paint adhesion.

240-Grit Final Polish: The final 240-grit pass creates the microscopically smooth surface that allows paint to flow uniformly without texture interruption. This stage is non-negotiable for trim receiving semi-gloss or gloss finishes, where light reflection amplifies every surface imperfection. Use 240-grit with barely perceptible pressure, working in the direction of final paint application (typically following wood grain). Three light passes outperform one heavy pass—each successive pass removes residual scratches the previous pass missed.

Select the Right Tools: Match Your Abrasive Backing to Trim Geometry

The rigid sanding block gives you better results for flat trim surfaces. A firm rubber or cork-backed block measuring 70mm x 125mm distributes pressure evenly, preventing the finger-tip gouging that creates waves in otherwise flat surfaces. When sanding door casings or flat baseboards, the block maintains the plane accuracy you need for crisp paint lines at trim edges. Wrap your abrasive paper around the block with enough tension to prevent slipping but not so tight that it tears during use.

For profiled trim containing beads, coves, or other decorative elements, rigid blocks work against you. They bridge across recesses, concentrating pressure on high points and flattening the architectural details that give trim its character. Switch to flexible abrasive products—foam-backed sanding sponges or abrasive mesh sheets—that conform to profile contours. The 3-5mm foam backing provides enough flexibility to follow curves while maintaining sufficient rigidity to prevent over-sanding in soft spots.

Contoured sanding blocks shaped to match common trim profiles—cove blocks, bead blocks, and corner blocks—allow controlled sanding of complex geometries. These specialised tools work better when dealing with crown moulding or detailed baseboards where standard blocks and flexible abrasives both prove inadequate. A small investment in profile-matched blocks eliminates the hand-sanding that creates inconsistent results and repetitive strain injuries.

Hand-sanding without backing blocks works exclusively for tight inside corners and intricate details inaccessible to any tool. Even here, fold your abrasive paper to create multiple layers that provide some rigidity and prevent finger-tip pressure points. The natural tendency when hand-sanding is applying excessive pressure in small areas, creating depressions that become visible under raking light after painting.

Perfect Your Feathering Technique: Create Imperceptible Transitions at Repair Boundaries

Feathering—the gradual blending of repair edges into surrounding surfaces—separates invisible repairs from obvious patches. The technique requires understanding the paint film thickness you'll ultimately apply. Standard interior trim paints build 50-75 microns per coat, meaning your feathered edge must extend far enough that this film thickness bridges any remaining elevation change.

Start feathering at the 150-grit stage, working 25-30mm beyond the repair perimeter with gradually decreasing pressure as you move away from the repair centre. Create a gentle ramp rather than a cliff edge. The repair centre receives full sanding pressure; at 10mm out, reduce to 75% pressure; at 20mm, 50% pressure; at 30mm, barely perceptible contact. This pressure graduation creates the micro-topography that disappears under paint.

Test your feathering success using the "raking light test." Position a portable work light at an acute angle to the trim surface—approximately 15-20 degrees—and observe for shadow lines at repair boundaries. Any visible shadow indicates an edge requiring additional feathering. This test simulates the worst-case lighting conditions your finished trim will encounter: morning or evening sun streaming through windows at low angles that reveal every surface imperfection.

On profiled trim, feathering becomes three-dimensional. The repair edge might fall on a flat surface, a curved bead, or a transitional area between profile elements. Each geometry needs adapted technique. On curves, feather by following the curve's arc rather than sanding straight across, which flattens the profile. In transitions between flat and curved areas, blend the repair into the flat section where you have better control, rather than attempting to feather onto the curve where maintaining profile integrity becomes tougher.

Manage Dust Properly: This Critical Step Determines Paint Adhesion

Sanding dust causes paint adhesion failure on trim repairs. Each grit stage generates progressively finer particles that embed in surface pores, creating a barrier between substrate and paint. The finest particles—from 220 and 240-grit sanding—create the most problems because they're small enough to remain suspended in air for hours, settling back onto cleaned surfaces before painting begins.

After each grit stage, remove dust using a two-step process. First, vacuum the entire trim surface using a brush attachment, working systematically from top to bottom to prevent dust from falling onto cleaned areas. The vacuum removes bulk dust but leaves fine particles electrostatically bonded to the surface. Second, wipe with a tack cloth—a sticky, resin-impregnated fabric that captures fine particles the vacuum missed. Fold the tack cloth frequently to expose clean surfaces; a dust-loaded tack cloth redistributes contamination rather than removing it.

Between the final 240-grit sanding and paint application, protect your prepared surface from airborne dust settlement. If painting cannot occur within 2 hours of final sanding, lightly drape the trim with plastic sheeting, securing it away from the sanded surface to prevent contact marks. This protection proves especially important in active households where foot traffic stirs settled dust back into the air.

For rooms undergoing complete renovation with multiple dust-generating activities, consider the timing of trim sanding within your project sequence. Sanding trim before plasterboard sanding or demolition work guarantees re-contamination. Whenever possible, schedule trim preparation as the final dust-generating activity before painting, minimising the window for re-contamination.

Inspect Thoroughly: Verify Before Paint Application

Visual inspection under multiple lighting conditions reveals different defect categories. Overhead lighting shows overall surface uniformity and major imperfections. Raking light from acute angles reveals subtle texture variations and incomplete feathering. Natural daylight provides the most honest assessment—if the repair looks perfect under natural light from multiple angles, it will perform well under any lighting condition post-painting.

The tactile inspection complements visual assessment by detecting defects your eyes might miss. Close your eyes and run your fingertips slowly across the repair zone and surrounding area. Your fingers detect elevation changes as small as 25-50 microns—far smaller than visual detection thresholds. Any perceptible ridge, depression, or texture change indicates incomplete sanding requiring additional attention.

The "primer test" provides definitive verification of surface readiness but requires patience. Apply a coat of high-quality primer to the prepared trim and allow complete drying. Primer highlights surface defects through differential absorption and texture. Rough areas appear dull where primer soaks into open grain or scratches; over-sanded areas appear shiny where primer sits on glazed surfaces. Any visible defects at this stage require light sanding with 240-grit, dust removal, and re-priming before topcoat application.

For high-gloss finishes on prominent trim in formal spaces, consider the "water test." Lightly mist the sanded surface with water from a spray bottle. Water darkens the timber and gap filler differently, revealing repair boundaries and surface texture variations invisible on dry surfaces. This test simulates the appearance under clear finishes and helps predict how repairs will perform under high-gloss paints that similarly reveal surface imperfections.

Avoid Common Sanding Errors and Know How to Correct Them

Over-sanding Adjacent Timber: Excessive sanding pressure or duration removes timber around repairs, creating depressions that become visible as dark patches under paint. This error typically occurs when attempting to level a proud repair entirely through sanding rather than addressing the excess during application. Prevention requires limiting aggressive grits (120-150) to the immediate repair zone and recognising when a repair needs scraping or cutting back rather than sanding down. If over-sanding occurs, the correction involves filling the depression with additional Selleys gap filler, curing, and restarting the sanding sequence.

Cross-Grain Scratching: Sanding perpendicular to wood grain creates scratches that remain visible through multiple paint coats, especially under raking light. This error is most common when rushing through coarse grit stages or when using circular sanding motions. Correction requires returning to 150-grit and methodically removing cross-grain scratches through careful with-grain sanding, then proceeding through the normal grit progression. Prevention is simpler: establish grain direction before beginning and maintain awareness of stroke direction throughout all sanding stages.

Profile Flattening: Aggressive sanding over decorative trim elements removes the architectural details that justify using profiled trim. Once flattened, profiles cannot be restored without replacement or extensive reconstruction. Prevention requires matching tool flexibility to profile complexity and using lighter pressure on decorative elements than on flat surfaces. If minor flattening occurs, it can sometimes be disguised through careful paint application that uses shadow and highlight to recreate visual depth, though this is damage control rather than correction.

Incomplete Feathering: Abrupt repair boundaries create visible lines under paint, the most common amateur sanding error. This occurs when sanding focuses exclusively on the repair itself rather than the transition zones. Correction requires extending the sanding area significantly beyond the original repair—often 75-100mm in all directions—and re-establishing gradual transitions through the complete grit progression in these expanded zones.

Master Advanced Techniques for Complex Trim Configurations

Inside Corner Treatment: Where trim pieces meet at inside corners, gap filler repairs often extend into the corner junction. Standard sanding blocks cannot access these areas without damaging adjacent surfaces. Fold 180-grit or finer abrasive paper into a narrow wedge and work it into the corner with light pressure, following the corner angle rather than sanding each surface independently. Your goal: blend the repair into the corner shadow where minor imperfections become invisible.

Outside Corner Management: Exposed outside corners on door casings and window trim require special attention because they're viewed from multiple angles and catch light from all directions. Sand outside corners using a specialised corner sanding block or by wrapping abrasive paper around a firm edge (a scrap of square dowel works well). Maintain the crisp corner line while feathering repairs on both faces. Test corner sharpness by sighting along the edge from both directions—any waviness indicates uneven sanding requiring correction.

Curved Trim Elements: Quarter-round, cove moulding, and other curved trim profiles require abrasives that conform to the curve without flattening it. Use foam-backed abrasive sheets cut into 25mm wide strips that flex around curves. Work with the curve, not across it, maintaining consistent pressure throughout the arc. For tight radius curves (under 10mm), consider abrasive cord or string—specialised products that sand inside coves and tight curves inaccessible to sheet abrasives.

End Grain Repairs: When gap filler repairs occur on trim end grain (common at mitered corners), the porous end grain absorbs filler differently than face grain, creating texture variations. After standard sanding progression, seal end grain repairs with a dedicated primer or thinned wood glue before final paint application. This sealing step prevents differential absorption that causes repaired end grain to appear dull compared to surrounding surfaces.

Prepare for Paint: Final Surface Conditioning

After completing the 240-grit sanding stage and thorough dust removal, the surface requires final conditioning to optimise paint adhesion and appearance. Wipe all sanded surfaces with a lint-free cloth slightly dampened with clean water. This removes the ultra-fine dust that survives vacuuming and tack cloth treatment while raising any compressed wood fibres that would otherwise rise under the paint film.

Allow the water-wiped surface to dry completely—typically 30-60 minutes depending on temperature and humidity. As it dries, wood fibres that absorbed moisture during wiping stand up slightly, creating minor roughness. Address this with a final ultra-light sanding using 240-grit with minimal pressure—barely more than contact weight. This "whisker removal" pass eliminates raised grain without creating new scratches.

The final dust removal before painting deserves meticulous attention. Vacuum once more with the brush attachment, then wipe with a fresh tack cloth using light, overlapping strokes. Inspect the tack cloth after each pass—when it no longer picks up visible dust, the surface is ready for primer. In dusty environments, consider wiping with a slightly damp (not wet) microfibre cloth as the absolute final step, allowing 15 minutes drying before primer application.

For trim receiving high-gloss finishes, consider a light scuff-sanding between primer and topcoat. After primer dries completely, sand lightly with 320 or 400-grit abrasive to remove any primer texture and create an ultra-smooth base for gloss paint. This additional step is unnecessary for satin or eggshell finishes but makes the difference between good and exceptional results under gloss.

Verify Quality: Confirm Paint-Ready Status

The final quality check occurs immediately before primer application. Position yourself at eye level with the trim surface and sight along its length, looking for surface irregularities visible as texture variations or shadow lines. Rotate your viewing angle to examine the surface from multiple perspectives—defects invisible from one angle become obvious from another.

Run a clean, dry hand across the entire sanded area. The surface should feel uniformly smooth with no detectable transitions between repair and original timber. Any texture variation indicates incomplete sanding requiring additional attention. Your hand also detects residual dust that appears as a slightly gritty feel—if present, repeat dust removal before proceeding.

Use the "thumbnail test" on the repair itself: press your thumbnail firmly into an inconspicuous area of the gap filler repair. Properly cured and sanded Selleys filler resists indentation and feels hard under pressure. Soft areas indicate incomplete cure or over-sanding that exposed uncured material beneath the surface skin. Such areas require additional cure time or spot repair before painting.

Document your preparation work, especially for insurance repairs or client projects. Photograph the prepared surface under both natural and artificial light, capturing the repair area and surrounding context. These images provide baseline documentation of proper surface preparation and protect against disputes about preparation quality if paint performance issues arise later.

Achieve Professional Results with Selleys Products

Selleys has been around since 1939, providing reliable solutions for Australian homes and tradies. The No More Gaps range continues this heritage of quality and innovation. When you combine Selleys gap fillers with proper surface preparation techniques, you get superior flexibility with 300%+ elongation that accommodates building movement, ensuring repairs remain invisible for years. The low-shrinkage formula minimises the sanding work required while creating smooth, lasting finishes that won't crack or pull away over time.

For optimal results, combine Selleys No More Gaps with complementary products from the Selleys range. After achieving a perfectly sanded surface, seal and protect your work with high-quality primers and paints. The brand's commitment to innovation ensures that each product works well together, from initial gap filling through final finishing. This integrated approach—backed by over 85 years of Australian expertise—gives you the professional results that DIYers and trade professionals demand.

The sanding techniques detailed in this guide work equally well with other Selleys filler products, including Spakfilla Rapid for quick-turnaround wall repairs and specialised formulations for exterior applications. Regardless of which product you choose, the fundamental principles remain constant: proper cure time, systematic grit progression, thorough dust removal, and meticulous inspection before painting. These steps transform good repairs into invisible repairs that stand the test of time.

Get It Right the First Time: Your Path to Superior Results

Success with architectural trim repair comes down to following proven techniques and using quality products. Selleys No More Gaps gives you the performance foundation—superior flexibility, low shrinkage, and reliable adhesion. Your sanding technique brings that foundation to life, creating repairs that disappear completely under paint.

Remember the key principles: assess your surface before starting, follow the complete grit progression from 120 through 240, match your tools to trim geometry, perfect your feathering technique, manage dust meticulously, and verify quality before painting. Each step builds on the previous one, creating the cumulative excellence that separates professional results from amateur work.

Take pride in your preparation work. The time you invest in proper sanding pays dividends in finished appearance that lasts for years. When you combine proven technique with Selleys quality, you achieve first-time success—no compromise, just professional results you're proud to show.

References

• Selleys No More Gaps Product Information - Manufacturer specifications for cure times and application properties
• Australian Standards AS/NZS 2311:2009 Guide to Painting of Buildings - Surface preparation standards for architectural coatings
• Fine Homebuilding: Trim Carpentry and Built-Ins - Professional techniques for trim finishing and repair

Frequently Asked Questions

What product is this guide about: Selleys No More Gaps

What type of product is Selleys No More Gaps: Acrylic-based gap filler

What is the primary application for this product: Architectural trim repairs

What surfaces does this work on: Door casings, window trim, baseboards, crown moulding

When was Selleys founded: 1939

What is the surface cure time: 1-2 hours

What is the full cure time before sanding: 24-48 hours

What happens if you sand too early: Rolling occurs where abrasive drags uncured product

What is the flexibility rating: 300%+ elongation

Does this product shrink: Low-shrinkage formula

What is the first grit in the progression: 120-grit

What is the second grit in the progression: 150-grit

What is the third grit in the progression: 180-grit

What is the fourth grit in the progression: 220-grit

What is the final grit in the progression: 240-grit

When should you start with 120-grit: When repair stands proud by more than 0.5mm

What abrasive material is recommended: Aluminium oxide abrasive

Should you sand with or against the grain: With the wood grain

What is the recommended sanding block size: 70mm x 125mm

What backing material works for sanding blocks: Rubber or cork

How far should 150-grit extend beyond repair: 25-30mm beyond repair edges

How far should 180-grit extend beyond repair: 50mm beyond original repair

Should 220-grit be used only on repairs: No, use across entire trim face

What angle should raking light test use: 15-20 degrees

What is feathering: Gradual blending of repair edges into surrounding surfaces

What is standard interior trim paint film thickness: 50-75 microns per coat

What foam backing thickness is recommended: 3-5mm foam backing

What should you use for inside corners: Folded 180-grit or finer abrasive paper

What width strips for curved trim: 25mm wide strips

What is the first dust removal step: Vacuum with brush attachment

What is the second dust removal step: Wipe with tack cloth

How long to protect surface before painting: Within 2 hours of final sanding

What drying time after water wiping: 30-60 minutes

What grit for scuff-sanding between primer and topcoat: 320 or 400-grit

Is scuff-sanding needed for satin finishes: No

Is scuff-sanding needed for gloss finishes: Yes

What micron elevation can fingers detect: 25-50 microns

What causes the halo effect: Differential paint absorption between repair and timber

What causes cross-grain scratching: Sanding perpendicular to wood grain

How to correct over-sanding: Fill depression with additional gap filler and restart

What is profile flattening: Removing architectural details through aggressive sanding

Can flattened profiles be restored: No, requires replacement or extensive reconstruction

What pressure at repair centre during feathering: Full sanding pressure

What pressure at 10mm from centre: 75% pressure

What pressure at 20mm from centre: 50% pressure

What pressure at 30mm from centre: Barely perceptible contact

Should you sand curves straight across: No, follow the curve's arc

What seals end grain repairs: Dedicated primer or thinned wood glue

What is the thumbnail test: Press thumbnail into repair to check cure

What does soft area indicate: Incomplete cure or exposed uncured material

Should you photograph preparation work: Yes, for documentation

What other Selleys product is mentioned: Spakfilla Rapid

What is Spakfilla Rapid used for: Quick-turnaround wall repairs

Does Selleys make exterior formulations: Yes

What country is Selleys expertise from: Australia

How many years of Selleys expertise: Over 85 years

Should dust removal occur after each grit stage: Yes

What causes paint adhesion failure: Sanding dust embedding in surface pores

What particles create the most problems: Finest particles from 220 and 240-grit

How long can fine particles remain suspended: Hours

What should you do in dusty environments: Wipe with slightly damp microfibre cloth

How long to wait after final wipe before priming: 15 minutes

What does the water test reveal: Repair boundaries and surface texture variations

What does primer highlight: Surface defects through differential absorption

What do rough areas look like after primer: Dull where primer soaks in

What do over-sanded areas look like after primer: Shiny where primer sits on glazed surfaces

Should aggressive grits be limited to repair zone: Yes

What creates visible lines under paint: Abrupt repair boundaries

How far to extend sanding for incomplete feathering correction: 75-100mm in all directions

What specialised tools exist for profiles: Cove blocks, bead blocks, corner blocks

When should hand-sanding be used: Tight inside corners and intricate details only

Should you fold abrasive paper for hand-sanding: Yes, to create multiple layers

What is whisker removal: Final ultra-light sanding to eliminate raised grain

How many light passes with 240-grit: Three light passes

What prevents slipping on sanding blocks: Proper tension wrapping abrasive paper

What radius requires abrasive cord: Under 10mm tight radius curves

Should sanding occur before or after plasterboard work: After plasterboard sanding

What is the two-step dust removal process: Vacuum then tack cloth

Should tack cloth be folded frequently: Yes, to expose clean surfaces

What distributes pressure evenly: Firm sanding block